Bald as a coot

OK, so this is the last moto story for a while, I promise, otherwise you’ll think nothing else happens in Rwanda!

This week has had its ups and downs – and many of them – mainly hills and valleys, twists and turns, highs and lows – whatever description you wish to use – life is never straight forward here! Following my abortive moto trip last week I decided to do a shorter distance this week – a 1 ½ hour journey instead of 4 (NEVER believe Rwandans when they give you an estimated time!) I was going to visit schools in another sector of my district which is fairly remote but not as remote as last week’s –( It wasn’t necessary to stay overnight) The driver had been booked by the headteacher who had invited me so I didn’t know him.

Fairly soon we were off the tarmac and onto the dirt track. We’d been progressing nicely when the driver began looking down at the wheels; he pulled over – flat tyre! Ok, so we get off, he makes noises, says something to me and walks off back the way we came. I’m standing there (seemingly in the middle of nowhere, although people are never far away in Rwanda) watching this young fella receding into the distance – I look down at the tyre – bald as a coot!!! I decided not to think about it.

After attempting conversation with one or two locals who came along exchanging many smiles and looks of sympathy the mobile repair man’s ‘van’ turned up with my driver on the back. (See photo) I must say, it was very efficient service and just as good as the RAC. The puncture was repaired and we were off again. The rest of the journey was spent checking the tyre every now and then and negotiating road works. I wish I could take photos so that you could see the amazing building of roads (not tarmac, but basic road construction) that is going on in the rural areas. As I have said some of the areas are very difficult to get to but there must be government scheme to improve access. In order to widen the roads the men and women are literally digging out whole hillsides by hand. The earth is moved from one side of the road (the hill side) to the other side of the road (the precipice side) by people using agricultural tools. They also dig drainage channels and line them with broken rock and cement. Very rarely, you might see a big bulldozer moving rocks and I also saw one ‘rock crushing machine’ (sorry chaps, don’t know what it’s called but it has like a big arm which crashes down onto the rock and splits it) The rest of the time everything is done by human beings using rudimentary hand tools. So many people working together to improve their situation.

The Repair Man's van

As you can guess by this time the journey time had doubled in length, but hey ho! I arrived safely.

I had a great day – probably the most satisfying day I’ve had so far in my work. I had been invited by the headteachers in the sector and they were very keen to improve their schools and work together to help each other. One of the challenges is actually knowing where the schools are and the first thing I did when I started work was to draw an outline map of my district on a rice sack (see a previous blog photo), but now I want to know where the schools are in relation to each other so that I can plan my visits – no such map exists so I’m making my own! I take the rice map off my office wall and take it with me whenever I go out. When I showed the headteachers and asked them to help they were very excited and set to work discussing the position of their schools in relation to each other and very soon began plotting them on the map. The main outcome of the day is a plan of action for this sector which will happen over the next two terms – so something concrete at last!

Now, because I had spent far more time at the school than expected we were later setting off back home and I think my young driver must’ve had a hot date that evening because we took a lot of short cuts across country!!! Up and down little goat tracks, through building sites, along back streets and alleys, we came out into a market square and he stopped to chat to some other moto drivers and took on board a jerry can which, at first, I thought was full of petrol, but thankfully, later, I realized it was empty. When we got back to the tarmac he dropped the jerry can off at the petrol station and presumably picked it up full of petrol on his way back to the village. That is how they transport petrol to the remote places.

So, that’s the last of my moto stories – for now! Because I have some really exciting news!

In April I am being joined by a new volunteer called Judy who will be a ‘Basic Methodology Trainer’ (BMT, or BLT as I keep thinking of those lovely sandwiches whenever I use the acronym BMT – I don’t know why – it’s just the way my brain works!! – creatively! – oh must be careful not to put Judy off before she even gets on the plane! Ha ha!)

It’s going to be great having someone to work with and we can be far more effective together. So, Judy, I just need to make sure you have what you need for excursions to school – not work stuff just stuff to survive! Most importantly – have you got your VSO helmet for motorbike rides – absolutely vital – VSO pay for it – if they haven’t got you one yet, get onto them as soon as possible. And practice wearing it at home or when you’re out clubbing – it’s your choice! (See previous blog posts) I say practice wearing because it is heavy. (I may end up with enormous neck muscles by the time I go home!) I managed to get mine from a friendly bike shop who gave it me for half price when I explained what I was doing – it was last year’s stock and the designs had changed. Also for riding the bikes – lightweight waterproof trousers and jacket – there is a spare set in the office but it is quite large – I don’t know what size you are. My jacket is just a cheap fold away from Rochdale market – it does the job but I may need to ask my friend to bring me another!! I have considered asking my friend to bring me some cheap leather gloves (just little ordinary ones) because my hands did get badly grazed on that 5 hour journey – but don’t go spending loads a cash. A waterproof liner for a lightweight back pack is essential - a back pack with a waist belt is also useful. My daughter gave me one of those horrible waist pouch/ bum belt thingies before I came away and at home I wouldn’t be seen dead in it, but here it is GREAT – your phone/ coin purse is secure but easily accessible (Thanks Sara, you’re an angel, so are you Nay, oh and you John!!) Another essential to take on journeys is an ‘emergency toilet kit’ – comprising a small plastic bag (difficult to get here) with hand gel, toilet paper and anything else you may need – (no I don’t mean toothbrush) Before I came I paid a visit to TJ Hughes and bought small bottles of hand gel – 3 for £1 – I bought about £5 worth and have still got plenty left. Seal the bottles with sellotape before you put them in your suitcase though.

I think that’s all for now – this blog has been rather long – please, please comment so that I know someone is reading . Enjoy the lovely springtime – my favourite season. T xxxxx

My first fall... well, slide really!

I tried to get to Nyabinoni this week and failed! I had 5 hour journey for nothing – except the experience of falling off the bike into the mud for the first time AND hailstones which felt like god throwing medicine balls at us! We were ‘bitten by ice’ as Charles said. He was mortified when I fell off and got covered in mud and later on as the rain stopped he found a water tap and literally poured water all over me and rubbed all the mud away – fortunately I proved that my waterproofs are, indeed, waterproof!

My plan was to give a presentation at the district headteachers meeting and travel up to the north of my district in the afternoon, arriving about 4pm, then spend the rest of the week there, visiting schools. My colleague had gone up the day before and we would return together on Friday. I have a great moto driver called Charles and he is safe and lovely!

I gave the presentation and left the meeting early. I had a heavy back pack because I was staying over, needed my netbook, work things etc. We set off, we left the tarmac road after an hour which meant at least 3 hours on dirt tracks – it is like scrambling rather than motorbike riding. An hour later the wind blew up (I’m beginning to know the signs!) – a warm wild wind – we put on all our waterproofs, then the rain started - it lashed down, but not just rain – ice balls!!! We were pelted by ice balls – I have the bruises to prove it. We needed some place to shelter , the track was becoming very slippy and dangerous. We pulled into a little sheltered place where there were other people. The local people told us that the road was blocked up ahead and it was not possible to go any further – I phoned my colleague who confirmed that the rain had been very heavy and it was bitterly cold – not the picture we have of Africa is it?! So we decided we should turn round and go back. The rain had stopped by this time. The journey along the track back to the tarmac took us two hours – it was extremely muddy in places and I had to get off and walk,(my preference by this time!) I fell off once but it was a gentle slide off into soft,wet mud rather than a ‘thrown off’ situation. Charles was mortified!

We continued on our way slipping and sliding and stopped at a water tap – Charles literally washed me down from head to foot!! – he was pouring water all over me and rubbing off the mud with is hands! By this time my bag was twice as heavy because of all the water he poured over it! I was aching all over and my back was so sore and stiff with carrying that weight – lesson – even if you’re staying overnight don’t bother taking anything – seriously I’m not going to take spare clothes or anything next time- just soap and toothbrush! We arrived back at the tarmac road and we were both relieved – it was another hour before we got home. We had set off at 12.30 and arrived back at 5.30 and basically got nowhere!

Oh well! Just another day in Rwanda

The next day was bright and clear and the sunset glorious.

Love to you all. Tx

Taking the goat for a walk?

These 2 photos were taken just outside my front gate. There is a lot of livestock wandering about here; including chickens, goats, cows and turkeys. Sometimes I see a man or a boy taking the goat for a walk on a lead, just like a dog...where are they going?? Are they going to find more grass to eat or are they going to be made into goat brochettes?? I just don't know!!

Like so many things here in this world in which I have found myself...

I don’t know what is going on half of the time! Sitting on a bus, waiting to go, the bus is full what are we waiting for? (don’t know!) people start making comments and chatting in Kinyarwanda... what’s going on (haven’t got a clue!) just sit and wait...all will be revealed! The bus starts off very, very slowly – pulls out into the carriageway then back in again. (what’s going on? Don’t know) Motorbike pulls up...passenger gets off...jumps on bus... ok we’re off! *tugende!* See – all will be revealed in good time!

One thing’s for sure you mustn’t be in a hurry and you must be able to accept that you won’t understand what is happening. This weekend I went to visit some friends in a different part of Rwanda. I travelled into Kigali on the bus (this journey is becoming familiar now), went to the VSO office – got lost – asked a friendly moto driver – got found again – collected some books to read – took a moto into city centre – booked into a room for the night – met up with Rachael – went to Heaven –( a wonderful restaurant in Kigali centre) Coming out at the end of a lovely meal we were overtaken by a raincloud and the storm broke – we were soaked to the skin within one minute – I kid you not!! We were screaming with laughter! Then a car pulled up and a perfect stranger offered us shelter and a lift – so we got into this car with a strange man – something we would NEVER do at home but which here seems perfectly safe and natural. He gave us a lift to our rooms and we left him with a very wet back seat and many thanks...‘Muracose Charne’

I’ll be so happy to start my Kinyarwanda lessons tomorrow!

Love to everyone and let me know when the snowdrops and daffs start showing through xxxx

First visit to a school

On Friday, I took my first ride out on the back of a motorbike!

I went up this dirt-track road into the countryside to visit a school.

The Hacienda of Dreams.... is what our house is called.

I have arrived at my new home and it is beautiful!! I did not expect this! After being in Kigali for 10 days I was getting worried that Gitarama would be just a smaller version of the big city , so I was amazed when we drove off the main road and came into a little semi- rural location with goats and turkeys wandering about. Our house has 4 bedrooms, a dining room, sitting room, kitchen, and a bathroom each! We also have a lovely vegetable garden. My housemate is a good cook and she made me a lovely meal on my first evening.

Today I went into the office as requested and introduced myself. The boss was friendly but busy and asked me to come back on Monday morning at 7am (we work 7am -5pm!) So I had a lovely walk home again. Later, another volunteer who has been here since September came to call for me and we went to open a bank account so that my small allowance can be paid in . We only had to wait for 2 hours so that was great! Gitarama is quite a hub for volunteers from all over the place and they often meet up for social occasions.

The local people are very friendly and helpful, stopping to say hello with a smile and a greeting. Today the sun was quite hot with little cloud cover so when I returned I was exhausted with the heat and the walking. I lay down on my bed and slept for an hour – I won’t be able to do that when I start work. Tomorrow I am going to visit a school with a colleague and it will involve my first excursion by motorbike into the rural areas, so I’m really looking forward to it. Click here to see a map of Rwanda in detail.

I hope you are all well, thank you to those who make comments either on here or on Facebook or by e-mail – it doesn’t matter how brief they are they are very welcome.